Blush mistakes you’re probably making



BY AMANDA LAUREN

Blush is an essential part of
every makeup look. It makes us look more awake and completes our face, but it
can also have the opposite effect. From the wrong color to the wrong kind, one
blush mistake can ruin an otherwise very pretty look. I asked several renowned
makeup artists what mistakes they see their clients making with blush and their
best tips on how to easily fix them.
You wear too much





There are so many makeup
mistakes anyone can make, but perhaps the most flagrantly bad is wearing too
much blush. Luckily, this problem is pretty easy to prevent. Celebrity makeup
artist Mary Irwin told me good lighting, being honest with yourself, and clean
tools are the key to preventing this problem. “Take a look at your
makeup in natural light before you leave,” she said. “Does it look
heavy? Take a clean brush and smooth it out. You can’t blend too much when
it comes to blush.”
Murat Evin of The London
School of Make-Up suggested the best way to prevent overdoing blush is to check
your brush before applying. “Be sure to gently brush off any excess powder
from your makeup tools. If you don’t, it’s going to affect the appearance of
your blush and can leave your complexion looking a little rosier than expected.
Remember that there is always a way to correct it.”
You choose the wrong color





With so many different blushes
out there, choosing just one can feel impossible. But Irwin has a great tip
that works every time. “The easiest way to figure out a natural flush
is to look at the inside of your lip. Whatever that color is, will be the
most natural blush color for you.”
If you are still unsure,
makeup artist Geoffrey Rodriguez, who has worked with a list of
celebrities including Gigi Hadid, Padma Lakshmi, and Gabby Reece, suggests
looking in the pink family if you have light skin. “Pink blush happens to
be the most universally flattering shade,” he said, but thinks darker skin
tones should stay away from pink. “Olive and darker complexions work best
with a more peach or orange tone blush. Either will be effective at creating a
healthy, natural glow.”
However, makeup artist Hillary
Kline sees her clients not choosing the wrong color so much as
too bright a shade. “I love hot pink, but that doesn’t mean that
I am going to apply it to the apples of my cheeks,” she said. “I
always tell my clients to steer clear of any blush hues that are too hot
of a pink or are too red. Instead, pick a blush that is a few shades
warmer than your natural skin tone.” 
You choose the wrong kind of
blush





From traditional powders to
liquids, gels, stains, sticks, and even creams, not every kind of blush works
well for everyone. Kline said the best formula is contingent upon skin type.
“If you have normal or oily skin, I recommend using a powder. If you
have a dry complexion, try a cream blush.”
Alejandro Falcon, who is the
Artistic Director for Osmosis Colour Mineral Cosmetics, thinks the easiest
choice for most of us is to just go with a powder. “Powder blushes, if
formulated well, can be easier to glide on the skin for the average consumer
and are easier to diffuse, for a soft flushed look that everyone loves on the
cheeks,” he explained, but if you are good at applying your makeup, he
thinks you can still explore other options. 
“With creams or gel
blushes, you have to be precise and know where you’re going to apply
them,” he told me. “Especially if you have dry skin because the
formulas can adhere to the dryness and then become hard to move or shape and
can cause the colors to streak or separate on the skin.” 


You are using blush to contour
incorrectly





None of the makeup artists I
spoke with have the same exact approach when it comes to using blush to
contour. Kline doesn’t think it’s a good idea. “Steer clear of using blush
to contour,” she said. “Instead, use a bronzer.”
Irwin, however, said bronzer is a no-go as well. “Don’t contour with blush
or bronzer!” she advised. “They all serve a different
purpose.” Regardless, both experts said that the best way to contour is to
use products specifically created for that purpose.
Falcon, however,
didn’t agree with either Irwin or Kline. He believes using blush is fine,
as long as you choose the right shade. “You want to start by choosing a
neutral tone blush that will be similar or close to your natural skin color,”
he said. “This way the contouring will seem natural and defined on
the skin. Apply the blush at the front of the ears and then move the color
forward and under the cheekbone to define the cheek area.”
Evin really likes using blush
to contour. “Blush is a great contouring tool. The art to completing a
perfect contour is choosing the right blush color,” he said. “Always
opt for a darker, bronzed blush.” He also explained the easiest way
to do this. “Simply dust blush onto your cheekbones, jaw line, and contour
area for a quick and easy look.”


You are using the wrong blush
brush





One mistake many of us are
guilty of is mixing up our powder and blush brushes, according to Evin.
“Using the right blush brush is essential to achieving a flawless
look,” he told me. “Mistaking a powder for a blush brush
can make blush spread unevenly on your face, which is something you should
always try to avoid.” 
Evin also shared some quick
tips to make sure you choose the right brush every time. “Remember to
consider the texture of your blush brush. It can have a huge effect on the
smooth application of your blush. Opt for a soft bristle brush for lightweight
application, which can be found from natural and synthetic bristles. This will
ensure your blush is evenly spread. More importantly, you are not left with a
patchy looking complexion.” He also suggests paying careful attention to
your brush when using blush for the purpose of contouring. “Many people
make the mistake of using a rounded brush when contouring with blush. However,
as a rule you should always opt for an angled blush brush, to achieve a
striking cheekbone line and showcase the different angles of your face.”
Makeup artist Shara Strand of
the Pierre Hotel in New York suggests a different kind of brush all together.
“My all-time favorite brush for applying blush is actually a fan
brush! It allows you to really blend, and gives you control to add more
and more color as you wish.”
You are paying more attention
to trends than what actually looks good





We’ve all made this mistake
with fashion or makeup. It can be hard to understand why something that looks
good on everyone else doesn’t look good on you. When it comes to trendy looks,
Rodriguez always thinks less is more. “Simple or basic blush has been
completely overshadowed by the current obsession with contouring and heavy
bronzers,” he told me. “Frankly, nothing looks more vibrant
and youthful than a healthy pink glow on the cheeks, especially in natural daylight.”
So how do you really know what
will look the best on you? Kline suggests taking a long, hard look at your face
in the mirror to figure that out. “You’re not realizing that your face
shape matters,” she said. “Blush can help balance your
facial features. If you have a square or heart-shaped face, put the blush
on the apples of your cheeks. If you have an oval face, I
recommend putting the blush the tops of the cheekbones. If you have a
round face, put the blush on the side of the cheeks rather than the apples.”
You are applying blush at the
wrong time





Putting your underwear over
your pants looks silly. Similar rules can apply to makeup, according to Irwin
who told me, “Don’t layer tons of product in the wrong order! Creams
give a beautiful flush but under powders, not over. Same with liquid
highlighters. Don’t put anything liquid or cream over powders.”
Evin’s philosophy is that good
blush comes to those who wait. “A mistake people often make with blush is
applying it straight after foundation. It’s only natural to start the next
step of your makeup, but applying blush too soon can confuse your judgment
on the coloring of our skin,” he explained. “It’s best
to let your foundation set. Only when it has settled nicely into your
skin, should you begin dusting blush onto the apples of your
cheeks.” 



You are blending it poorly





Poorly blending is another
huge blunder. Kline thinks this happens when people don’t give themselves
enough time. “If you are in a rush, you might forget to put on
blush,” she said. “But, you also run the risk of having your makeup
look oversaturated, if you’re in a hurry. Blush should be
well-blended.”
Evin often sees this problem
with people who use cream formulas. “People tend to apply cream blush with
their fingers and gradually work it into the apple of their cheeks. There is
nothing wrong with this application, as cream blush is a lot lighter than
heavier powder blushes. However, it’s crucial you proceed to blend your
blush with a brush. Otherwise, cream blush can appear smeared onto the skin and
quite frankly, looks unfinished.”
He could not emphasize the
importance of blending enough. “Blush should always be blended to even out
the different tones of color you are adding to your skins natural pigment.
Blending is the key to a flawless look when applying blush.”


You are applying it the wrong
way





Every makeup artist I spoke to
could not emphasize enough that for blush to look as natural as possible, it
needs to high up on your face. Rodriquez explained, “As a basic rule of
thumb, always apply blush to the apples of the cheek in a circular motion and
then blend following the natural cheekbone toward the hairline and finish by
gently sweeping toward the nose. This creates a healthy, vibrant, natural
looking glow that works on everyone.”
Kline said it’s important to
keep your blush away from your nose. “Blush can be too close to the nose.
Honestly, putting blush too close to the nose can actually accentuate
redness. Keep the product higher up on the bridge instead of super close
to the nostrils.”


You get stuck in a makeup rut



If you’ve had the same look
for years, your blush can become blah. If that is the case, Strand said it’s
time to experiment with something new. “When getting stuck in a makeup rut,
changing up blush can really spice things up!” she said. “I would
suggest if you tend to stay with only peach tone blushes, see if a bronzy tone
might look different and nice. If you are a pink blush person, try it even
brighter pink or maybe a peachy pink.” 
Anthony Pazos, who is a hair
stylist and makeup artist, thinks mixing it up is a matter of getting inspired.
“A great way to re-inspire yourself after a blush rut is to look at the
current makeup trends in fashion magazines like Vogue, W, and Allure,” he
told me. “These publications are the go-to for the most up to date
makeup trends right off the runway. Plus it shows you a visual that you might
not have originally tried on your own.”



Keep blushing





Are you blushing right now at
how many mistakes you’ve made with blush? If you can’t remember all of these
tips, next time you do your makeup just remember to be in the best natural
lighting possible, really look at your face and ask yourself if your makeup
looks as good as it possibly can, and don’t forget the key to a flawless finish
is to blend as much as possible. 
Even more important than your
blush is how you feel about yourself. Confidence, but especially with your
blush application skills, will always make you look and feel your best.





SOURCE: THE LIST
Kayode Ojo
Kayode Emmanuel Ojo is the Co-Founder and Managing Director at SHEFFA Limited. He is presently studying Computer Science at the National Open University, Victoria Island, Lagos.